I escaped for a beautiful relaxing break for the last of the summer sun in October in Portugal. What a treat, the weather was unexpectedly divine for late October. Early morning and evening yoga then surfer paradise lessons was certainly exhausting, but super detoxing (apart from the homemade sangria which was lusssshh!!).
I met some amazing ladies, who will stay in my heart forever, so mad in less than a week you can meet some international legends that feel like some of your best friends from back home!! There was a huge healthy breakfast provided a delicious and nutritious meal start the day. I leant to be patient, surfing is such an easy way to let your ego get the better for you. Naturally you want to make sure you get a good wave. Naturally you want to make sure all the advice the teachers give you before has been ingrained into your head. The sea is so powerful, you have to surrender both mentally and physically, I mean literally you are surviving being bashed around. Again and again, it throws you around like a rag doll. Your ego is bruised, you face is full of saltwater, your bogies are streaming everywhere. Chatting to your bronzed surf teacher with a face full of bogies makes you feel well, so 'un-cool'. That's exactly when you, let-it-all-go.
I chose my battles, partly because I was too exhausted, my MS fatigue was next level. Just walking through the tide from the beach to the horizon was tough. They say it's like wading through sand, but I think it's the same thing, wading through gushing water. Being dragged against the current, fatigue is a fucker, but it's a reality for me, and there is nothing more satisfying the catching a wave. You feel free, and connected with the beautiful earth we live, in mother nature is a next level.
More please. Here is my first day...nose cracker and split, blood everywhere, teacher says. I have a 'bloody' hitler style moustache on my lip. Charming!
Catching a beauty.
Conquer that yaaayyyy. NAMASTER SURFER GIRL!!